Washer & Dryer Repair in Haverhill, MA
Appliance Repair for Homes & Businesses in Haverhill, Methuen, Lawrence, Merrimac, Groveland, Georgetown, Massachusetts and Nearby Areas
Washer and Dryer Repair in Haverhill, Massachusetts, Appliance Repair Pros
Washer and Dryer Repair in Haverhill, Massachusetts is a service we take seriously because we understand that a mountain of dirty laundry is a major source of stress for any household. When your washing machine stops spinning or your dryer leaves clothes damp after a full cycle, the logistics of your week fall apart. Appliance Repair Pros acts as your reliable local partner, providing thorough diagnostics and skilled repairs for homeowners in Haverhill and the nearby communities of Methuen, Lawrence, Merrimac, Groveland, and Georgetown. We handle both gas and electric units, navigating the specific challenges of laundry appliances, from basement installations in older homes to tight laundry closets in modern condos. Whether you are dealing with a washer that is leaking water, a dryer that is overheating, or a unit that simply won’t start, our team has the expertise to resolve the issue. We treat your home with care, ensuring connections are secure and floors are protected. Contact us today.
Washer and Dryer Repair Services in Haverhill
We offer a complete spectrum of repair services for all laundry appliances. Laundry technology has advanced from simple timer-based machines to complex units with steam cycles, Wi-Fi connectivity, and direct drive motors. Our technicians are trained to troubleshoot both the mechanical components and the electronic control systems that govern them. We look beyond the immediate symptom to find the underlying cause, such as a clogged vent causing a thermal fuse to blow, ensuring the repair lasts.
Laundry systems we work on
- Top loading washing machines (agitator and impeller)
- Front loading washing machines
- Stackable washer and dryer sets
- Gas dryers
- Electric dryers
- Combination washer-dryer units
- Compact and apartment-sized units
- Pedestal mounted laundry pairs
- Coin-operated or residential commercial-grade units
What makes laundry repair tricky
- High-speed spin balancing (up to 1200 RPM)
- Gas valve coils and ignition systems
- 240-volt electrical circuits for electric dryers
- Internal dryer venting paths that collect lint
- Door boot seals that require precise fitting
- Direct drive motor stators and rotors
- Tub suspension and shock absorbers
Common Washer and Dryer Problems We Fix
Washer Not Draining
A washer full of soapy water and wet clothes is a messy problem. If the machine finishes the wash cycle but doesn’t pump the water out, the lid will often stay locked, trapping your laundry inside. This can happen suddenly or gradually over several loads.
Likely causes
- Clogged drain pump filter (coin trap)
- Failed drain pump motor
- Obstructed house drain or standpipe
- Broken lid switch or door lock
- Worn pump belt (on older models)
- Control board relay failure
How we diagnose it
We listen for the hum of the pump motor. If it hums but doesn’t drain, it’s likely jammed or the impeller is broken. We check the voltage reaching the pump. We also inspect the drain hose for kinks and check the filter for foreign objects like coins or socks.
What you can do right now
Check the drain hose behind the washer to ensure it isn’t crushed against the wall. If your model has a front access filter door, open it carefully (have a shallow pan ready) and clear any debris.
Washer Not Spinning
If your clothes come out soaking wet, the spin cycle failed. The motor might run, but the drum doesn’t move fast enough to extract water. This puts extra strain on your dryer and wastes energy.
Likely causes
- Broken or loose drive belt
- Worn motor coupling
- Failed lid switch (safety feature)
- Defective door latch assembly
- Shift mode actuator failure
- Motor control board issue
How we diagnose it
We check error codes first, which often pinpoint a motor or sensor fault. We inspect the belt tension and condition. On direct drive units, we test the motor windings and the hall sensor (speed sensor) to ensure the computer knows how fast the drum is turning.
What you can do right now
Redistribute the load. If all the heavy towels are on one side, the machine’s imbalance sensor will stop the spin to prevent damage. Try running a “Drain and Spin” cycle with a lighter load.
Washer Leaking Water
Puddles around your washing machine can damage flooring and leak into ceilings below. Leaks can occur during the fill cycle, the wash cycle, or the drain cycle, and pinpointing the source is critical.
Likely causes
- Cracked or loose fill hoses
- Worn door boot seal (front loaders)
- Leaking drain pump
- Tub seal failure (center of the drum)
- Loose water inlet valve connections
- Oversudsing causing overflow
How we diagnose it
We run the machine and observe where the water originates. We remove the front or back panel to check internal hoses and the pump housing. We inspect the door gasket for tears or items stuck between the glass and the rubber.
What you can do right now
Turn off the water supply valves behind the washer immediately. Check the connection where the hoses screw into the wall and the back of the machine; sometimes a washer gasket inside the hose just needs tightening or replacing.
Washer Vibrating or Shaking Violently
A washer that “walks” across the room or bangs loudly is scary and can damage your home. While some vibration is normal, violent shaking indicates a suspension or leveling issue.
Likely causes
- Machine not level
- Worn out shock absorbers
- Broken suspension springs
- Damaged snubber ring
- Counterweight loose or broken
- Shipping bolts left in (new installs)
How we diagnose it
We push down on the tub to test the recoil of the suspension rods. We check the leveling legs to ensure all four are firmly touching the floor. We inspect the internal concrete counterweights for cracks.
What you can do right now
Put a level on top of the machine. Adjust the front legs until the bubble is centered. Ensure the lock nuts on the legs are tightened against the frame so they don’t back out during operation.
Dryer Not Heating (Electric)
An electric dryer that spins but blows cold air is a common failure. The drum turns, but the clothes stay wet. This is almost always a component failure in the high-voltage heating circuit.
Likely causes
- Burned out heating element
- Blown thermal fuse
- Tripped household breaker (partial trip)
- Failed operating thermostat
- Burnt wire at the terminal block
- Timer or control board failure
How we diagnose it
We check the voltage at the outlet to ensure the dryer is getting the full 240 volts. We test the heating element for continuity (a complete path for electricity). We also check the thermal fuse, which cuts power if the unit overheats.
What you can do right now
Check your circuit breaker panel. Electric dryers use a double pole breaker. Sometimes one side trips, allowing the motor (120V) to run but cutting power to the heater (240V). Flip it off and back on.
Dryer Not Heating (Gas)
Gas dryers rely on a sequence of ignition steps. If you hear the gas valve click but see no fire, the safety system has likely shut down the process.
Likely causes
- Weak gas igniter (glow bar)
- Defective gas valve coils (solenoids)
- Blown thermal fuse
- Flame sensor failure
- No gas supply
How we diagnose it
We remove the inspection panel (peep hole) to watch the ignition sequence. If the igniter glows but fades without lighting the gas, the coils are usually bad. If it doesn’t glow at all, the igniter or thermal fuse is the culprit.
What you can do right now
Verify other gas appliances in the house (stove, furnace) are working to confirm you have gas supply. Ensure the gas valve on the line going to the dryer is parallel to the pipe (open).
Dryer Taking Too Long to Dry
If you have to run the dryer two or three times to dry a load of towels, you are wasting energy and stressing the machine. This is almost always an airflow issue.
Likely causes
- Clogged home venting system
- Crushed transition vent hose behind unit
- Lint buildup on the blower wheel
- Cycling thermostat failing
- Moisture sensor strips dirty
How we diagnose it
We disconnect the vent from the back of the dryer and run a test load. If it dries quickly, the problem is in your house venting, not the machine. We measure the temperature of the exhaust air to ensure the thermostat is cycling correctly.
What you can do right now
Clean your lint trap before every load. Go outside and check the vent hood cover to ensure it opens freely and isn’t clogged with lint. If the vent hose behind the dryer is plastic, replace it with rigid metal.
Dryer Making Loud Noises
Squeaking, thumping, or grinding noises indicate moving parts are wearing out. Dryers are simple machines with drums that rotate on rollers or bearings.
Likely causes
- Worn drum support rollers
- Idler pulley bearing failure
- Worn drum glides or slides
- Object stuck in the blower wheel
- Drive belt fraying
How we diagnose it
We rotate the drum by hand to listen for the source of the squeak. We inspect the rollers for flat spots and check the idler pulley for wobble. We check the blower housing for pens or coins that might be rattling.
What you can do right now
Check the inside of the drum for loose change, buttons, or zippers hitting the metal. If the noise is a rhythmic thumping, it might be the clothes knotting up; try untangling them.
Washer Door Locked Shut
Front load washers lock the door to prevent flooding. If the cycle ends or is interrupted and the door won’t open, the latch or control system may be confused.
Likely causes
- Water left in the tub (pressure switch safety)
- Broken door latch mechanism
- Control board failure
- Thermal lock cooled down slowly
How we diagnose it
We check for water in the tub; if present, we must drain it manually before the door will release. We test the lock assembly solenoid. Most units have a manual release tab accessible from the bottom panel which we can use in emergencies.
What you can do right now
Do not pry the door open; you will break the latch and the strike. Try running a “Spin/Drain” cycle. Unplug the washer for 5 minutes to see if the electronic lock resets.
Burning Smell
A burning smell coming from your laundry room is alarming. It usually indicates friction or an electrical short.
Likely causes
- Lint buildup touching the heating element
- Belt slipping on the motor shaft
- Wire insulation melting
- Motor overheating
How we diagnose it
We open the cabinet to look for scorched lint or black rubber dust from a disintegrating belt. We inspect the terminal block where the power cord connects for loose, arcing wires.
What you can do right now
Turn the unit off immediately. Unplug it if you can do so safely. Do not use the machine until it has been inspected, as lint fires are a serious risk.
Safety Notes for Washer and Dryer Issues
Washer and dryer repair involves interacting with water, gas, and high voltage. The risks are real, and safety is our primary concern when entering your Haverhill home.
- If you smell gas near your dryer do this first. Stop the machine. Do not unplug it or touch any light switches, as a spark could ignite the gas. Open windows to air out the room. Shut off the gas supply valve to the dryer if accessible. Evacuate the home and call your gas provider.
- If you see smoke or excessive heat coming from the dryer do this first. Turn off the dryer. Go to the circuit breaker panel and turn off the power to the dryer. Do not open the dryer door, as fresh oxygen can fuel a lint fire inside the drum. Keep the door closed until it cools.
Dryer lint is highly flammable. A clogged vent is the number one cause of appliance fires. Never operate a dryer without a lint filter. For washers, always ensure the unit is plugged into a grounded outlet to prevent shock hazards, especially given the presence of water.
Brands We Service for Washer and Dryer Repair in Haverhill
Laundry appliances vary significantly by manufacturer. A Whirlpool direct drive washer works on completely different principles than a Samsung front loader. We tailor our approach to the specific engineering of each brand.
Whirlpool family and similar designs (Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana)
These are the most common units we see in Haverhill. Older “direct drive” models are legendary for durability, while newer VMW (Vertical Modular Washer) designs use sensors and actuators to control the basket. Maytag Commercial technology is also robust but requires specific tools to service.
Common issues we see with these models
- Lid lock flashing error lights
- Actuator failure preventing shift from agitate to spin
- Coupling breaking between motor and transmission
- Pump belt wearing out on commercial units
- Control board capacitors failing
We carry the specific “striker” tool needed to open the cabinets on these units without damaging the enamel, ensuring a clean repair.
GE family (GE, Hotpoint, and related lines)
GE washers often use the “Hydrowave” system with a unique motor and inverter board. Their dryers are generally easy to service but have specific weak points in the bearing departments. New GE front loaders differ significantly with their “UltraFresh” vent systems.
Common issues we see with these models
- Inverter board failure (motor won’t run)
- Rear drum bearing wearing out (loud noise)
- Mode shifter assembly leaking oil
- Door boot mold issues
- Control knob shafts breaking
We know how to reset the motor drive system on GE units, which is often required after a power surge or part replacement.
Samsung and LG
These brands dominate the front-load market. They are technically advanced, using Direct Drive motors attached directly to the drum (no belt). They have complex main boards and require disassembly from the front and top.
Common issues we see with these models
- Drain pump failure (OE/5E errors)
- Door boot seal tears
- Hall sensor (RPS) failure causing tub not to spin
- Heating element grounding out
- Spider arm bracket corrosion causing wobbly drum
Proper diagnosis of the error codes is essential here. We use multimeter testing to confirm if a “motor error” is actually the motor or just a loose wire harness, saving you the cost of a motor.
Frigidaire and Electrolux
These brands are common in stackable laundry centers and closet installations. They utilize belt-driven motors for both washers and dryers. The dryers often have a heating element located behind the drum which requires removing the drum to access.
Common issues we see with these models
- Rear drum bearing ball and socket wearing out
- Door latch assembly breaking
- Control board interface freezing
- Lint buildup inside the blower housing
- Heating element coil breaks
We are experienced in pulling these stacked units out of tight closets safely to access the rear service panels.
Common Warning Signs and What They Usually Mean
Sometimes the machine doesn’t give you a code, it just acts strangely. Here is what those behaviors usually imply.
- Clothes are hot but wet: This usually means the dryer is heating, but the moist air isn’t escaping. This is a classic sign of a clogged dryer vent.
- Washer stops full of water: The lid switch might be broken. The machine pauses for safety because it thinks the lid is open. Alternatively, the pump is jammed.
- Thumping sound in washer: Usually an unbalanced load. If it happens with an empty tub, the suspension rods or shock absorbers are worn out.
- Black marks on clothes: In a dryer, this means the drum glides are worn, and clothes are getting pinched between the drum and the frame. In a washer, it could be grease from a failing transmission.
- Timer doesn’t advance: On older dryers, this often means the “Auto Dry” sensor isn’t working or the heating circuit is dead (timers often wait for heat to advance).
Maintenance Tips for Washer and Dryer Owners in Haverhill
Preventative maintenance is the best way to avoid emergency calls. A few simple habits can keep your laundry room running smoothly.
Clean the Dryer Vent Annually. The lint trap only catches about 60% of the lint. The rest goes into the vent hose. Once a year, disconnect the hose and vacuum it out. This prevents fires and lowers your electric bill.
Leave the Washer Door Open. After every wash, leave the lid or door ajar. This allows the tub to dry out and prevents mold and mildew growth on the gasket, which causes the dreaded “smelly washer” problem.
Check Hoses Every 5 Years. Rubber fill hoses degrade over time. If they burst, you have a flood. Inspect them for bubbles or cracks and replace them with stainless steel braided hoses for peace of mind.
Do Not Overload. Stuffing the washer to the brim prevents clothes from tumbling and strains the motor and suspension. It is better to run two medium loads than one giant one.
Clean the Lint Trap Every Time. A dirty lint screen restricts airflow, causing the dryer to overheat and the thermal fuse to blow.
Level the Machines. If your washer isn’t level, the high-speed spin will damage the internal bearings and suspension. Check it occasionally, as vibration can loosen the legs over time.
Service Area for Washer and Dryer Repair in and Around Haverhill, MA
We serve the entire Haverhill area and the surrounding towns in the Merrimack Valley. Our local presence means we are familiar with the area’s housing stock, from the triple-deckers with basement laundry to the new developments with second-floor laundry rooms.
- Haverhill
- Methuen
- Lawrence
- Merrimac
- Groveland
- Georgetown
Zip codes we serve: 01830, 01831, 01832, 01835, 01844, 01840, 01841, 01842, 01843, 01860, 01834, 01833
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it worth repairing a dryer that is 10 years old?
Dryers are relatively simple machines. Even an older unit can often be fixed inexpensively if the problem is a belt, roller, or heating element. However, if the motor fails or the timer breaks on a very old unit, replacement might be better. We can assess the condition of the internal drum and glides to give you an honest recommendation.
Why does my washing machine smell like mildew?
This is common in front loaders. Soap residue and fabric softener build up behind the door seal and trapped water breeds bacteria. To fix it, clean the gasket manually with bleach and run a “Tub Clean” cycle with a washer cleaner tablet. Always leave the door open between uses.
Can you fix a stacked washer and dryer in a closet?
Yes, we service stacked units regularly. These can be difficult to access, but we have the equipment (like air sleds) to move them out safely without damaging your floor. Please let us know if the unit is stacked when you contact us so we can send the right resources.
What is the difference between repairing a gas dryer and an electric dryer?
The mechanical parts (drum, belt, rollers) are the same, but the heating systems differ. Electric dryers use heating coils and fuses, while gas dryers use igniters, flame sensors, and gas coils. We are trained to safely repair both types.
Why is my dryer running but not heating?
On electric dryers, this is often a blown thermal fuse caused by a clogged vent, or a broken heating element. On gas dryers, it is usually weak solenoid coils or a bad igniter. In both cases, the motor runs because it is on a separate circuit from the heater.
How do I know if my shock absorbers are bad?
If your front load washer bangs loudly during the spin cycle even when the load is balanced, the shocks are likely worn. You can test this by pushing the inner drum down and letting go. It should return to position immediately without bouncing up and down like a trampoline.
Do you repair commercial coin-operated laundry units?
Yes, we service residential-style commercial units often found in apartment buildings or multi-family homes in Haverhill. We can fix the mechanical issues, though we may need specific keys to access the coin box area.
Why won’t my washer lid lock?
The lid lock is a safety device. If the lock mechanism is dirty, broken, or the strike is misaligned, the control board will prevent the machine from starting. Sometimes a simple cleaning of the latch area solves the problem.
What should I do to prepare for the repair appointment?
Please remove any laundry from the machines. If the washer is full of water, let us know beforehand. Clear the area around the machines so we can pull them away from the wall. If you have pets, please secure them in another room.
My dryer vent goes through the roof, do you clean that?
We clean the internal ducts of the dryer itself and the immediate connection to the wall. For long runs through walls or to the roof, we can inspect the airflow and recommend a specialized vent cleaning service if a deep cleaning is required.
Conclusion
Appliance Repair Pros offers dependable, expert washer and dryer repair for the residents of Haverhill, Methuen, Lawrence, Merrimac, Groveland, and Georgetown. We understand that laundry is a necessity, not a luxury. Our team uses precise diagnostics to identify whether your issue is a simple belt replacement or a complex control board failure. We are committed to honest service, safety, and getting your laundry room operational again as quickly as possible. Reach out to us for assistance.
